Maybe I shoudl buy a second spare just in case though. Moving the bottom pin in that image to the top slot and moving the +12V pin right next to it seems to be the correct answer. I used a multi-meter to continuity test the 5 fan pins and using another online guide I determined that there was continuity between the fan side pin 2 and the pin on the other end of the connector. Apparently the way I had it was connecting power and ground to the signal RPM & PWM pins, which is why the PWM chip exploded. Plugged it in the other way, and although I have fried the control portion, nothing is melting or popping any more. This is such a minor part of my project that I am already regretting choosing your products since apparently you have decided not to document them any more. I am following online pinout guides like this one.Please let me know before the second controller arrives. You could save everyone a lot of trouble here by using cables with the standard IEEE color scheme, although I am sure these all black ones are cheaper. On the 4 pin connector as it sits in the controller looking top (side with the buttons) down I have the following left to right: I have this thing wired up to a molex and have tucked the unused signal wires into the shield that came with the cable. Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Plus A Reservoir/Pump Combo with an RGB LED Cap A great choice for your DIY custom liquid-cooing loop, the Thermaltake Pacific PR22-D5 Plus Reservoir/Pump Combo is a high-quality 300ml reservoir with an integrated D5 pump and a software-controlled 16.8 million colors LED cap. Already fried a controller and it takes almost a full week to get another one. I also need the pinout for the 4 pin header on the north (opposite the 5-pin fan connectors) side.
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